How to Choose a Flannel Shirt: The Men's Buying Guide
How to Choose a
Flannel Shirt
The Men's Guide
Fabric, fit, collar, colourway — everything you need to know before buying a flannel shirt, from a brand that actually makes them for the outdoors.
The flannel shirt is one of those garments that's been done badly so many times — by fast fashion brands cutting costs on fabric weight, by outdoor retailers adding unnecessary technical features — that it's worth taking a moment to understand what separates a genuinely good one from the vast majority. Get it right and you have a shirt that'll be in regular use for years. Get it wrong and you have something too thin to be warm, too stiff to move in, or in a colourway that doesn't work with anything else you own.
This guide covers the decisions that matter: fabric and weight, fit, collar construction, pocket detail, and colourway. At the end, it covers the two flannel families in the Ghillie range — the Brae and the Munro — and the specific situations each one is built for. If you already know which you want, shop the full flannel range here.
What to Look For
Six Things That Separate a Good Flannel from a Bad One
Fabric: 100% Brushed Cotton
The only material worth buying for an outdoor flannel shirt. Brushed on both sides to raise a soft nap, 100% cotton breathes, insulates genuinely, and feels better against the skin than any synthetic alternative. Avoid flannel blended with polyester — it's warmer to make, not to wear.
Weight: Heavier is Better for Outdoors
A heavier cotton weight — around 5–6oz — provides real mid-layer warmth and holds its shape over time. Lightweight flannels are fine for casual indoor wear but don't perform as a genuine outdoor mid layer. If you're using it on a hill, a riverbank, or in cold conditions, weight matters.
Fit: Regular, Not Slim
For outdoor use, a regular fit is non-negotiable. It allows a full range of shoulder and arm movement, layers cleanly over a base layer, and sits without bunching under a gilet or wading jacket. Slim fit flannel shirts look excellent on a hanger — and restrict your casting arm on a river.
Collar: Hidden Button-Down
A hidden button-down collar keeps the collar flat under outerwear and doesn't flap in wind. Free collars look good open but become a nuisance under a jacket or a wading coat. This is a small detail that makes an enormous difference in regular outdoor use.
Pockets: Useful, Not Decorative
Chest pockets should be genuinely useful — deep enough to hold items securely, with seams or closures that don't lose things during active movement. The Brae's built-in sunglass holder and microfibre lens cloth are examples of outdoor-specific pocket detail done right.
Colourway: Earthy, Versatile, Natural
The best flannel colourways for outdoor use are those that work in natural settings and transition easily to social ones. Neutral checks in earth tones — deep blues, greens, dark greys — sit well on the hill and in the pub. Avoid bright colours or novelty patterns for anything other than casual indoor wear.
The Detail
Fabric and Weight — Why It Matters More Than You Think
Most flannel shirts sold in the UK today are not what a flannel shirt should be. The fast fashion version is a lightweight brushed cotton shirt — barely thicker than a standard shirt — sold on the flannel name without delivering flannel warmth. The outdoor version is heavier, softer, and built to be the primary mid layer on a cold day, not just a shirt that looks the part.
When you pick up a quality flannel shirt, you should feel the weight immediately. The fabric should have body — it shouldn't drape like a lightweight shirt or feel thin at the seams. Brushed on both sides means the inside of the shirt is as soft as the outside, which matters when you're wearing it against a base layer for hours at a time.
Cotton is also the right material for the British outdoors specifically. It doesn't hold synthetic odours, breathes well during active periods, and warms up naturally from body heat. A good cotton flannel shirt washed regularly will outlast most technical alternatives by years — and look better doing it.
Wash at 30°C, turn inside out, hang to dry. Flannel shirts don't need ironing — the brushed texture relaxes naturally. The first few washes will soften the fabric further; a good flannel shirt improves with wear.
Fit and cut — what works outdoors
The most common mistake when buying a flannel shirt for outdoor use is buying a slim fit. Slim fit flannel shirts look excellent and wear well in casual settings. They're the wrong choice for anything active. A regular fit gives you the shoulder room you need for a casting stroke, the back width for climbing movement, and the body length that stays tucked when you're bending or reaching.
The Brae and Munro flannel shirts are both cut in a regular fit, sized from S to 3XL. The fit is relaxed enough to layer over a base layer without feeling baggy, and structured enough to look intentional when worn as a standalone mid layer.
The Ghillie Range
Brae vs Munro — Which Is Right for You?
Brae Flannel Shirt
Munro Flannel Shirt
Both shirts share the same 100% brushed cotton construction, hidden button-down collar, regular fit, and £96 price. The 20% discount applies automatically when you add two or more flannel shirts — any combination of Brae and Munro colourways.
Colourway Guide
Which Colourway Is Right for You?
How to Wear It
Four Ways to Wear a Flannel Shirt
The Outdoor Mid Layer
- Merino base layer underneath
- Brae or Munro Flannel buttoned up
- Torr Wool Gilet over the top
- Waterproof jacket as outer when needed
Standalone Warm-Weather Layer
- T-shirt or organic cotton tee underneath
- Flannel buttoned up or open over a tee
- Sleeves rolled to the elbow
- Dark jeans or cord trousers, boots or loafers
Smart Casual — Pub to Restaurant
- Munro Flannel — the cleaner option for evenings
- Half-tucked at the front only
- Torr Gilet over the top, zip open or closed
- Slim dark denim, Chelsea boots
Travel — Pack Light, Look Sharp
- Brae Offshore — light check, resists creasing
- One pair dark jeans, one flannel, one gilet
- Three full days of looks from three pieces
- Tarvie Cap for travel days
Common Questions
Flannel Shirt FAQ
What fabric is best for a flannel shirt?
100% brushed cotton is the right choice for an outdoor or country flannel shirt. Brushed on both sides, it provides real warmth, breathes well, and feels better against the skin than any synthetic alternative. The Ghillie Brae and Munro are both made from 100% brushed cotton — heavyweight enough to function as a genuine mid layer in cold conditions.
What fit should a flannel shirt be for outdoor use?
Regular fit. A regular fit allows a full range of shoulder movement for active outdoor pursuits, layers cleanly over a base layer, and sits without bunching under a gilet or jacket. Slim fit flannel shirts look good but restrict movement and don't layer as effectively. The Brae and Munro are both cut in a regular fit, available from S to 3XL.
Should a flannel shirt have a button-down collar?
For outdoor use, yes — and ideally a hidden button-down rather than a visible one. A hidden button-down collar keeps the collar flat under outerwear and doesn't flap in wind. Both the Brae and Munro feature hidden button-down collars for exactly this reason.
What's the difference between Brae and Munro flannel shirts?
Same construction, different character. The Brae is the utility check — traditional check pattern in four colourways, with practical outdoor details including a built-in sunglass holder and microfibre lens cloth. The Munro is more minimalist — contrast drill-cotton detailing, deep pleated chest pockets, and a cleaner profile that works as well in a smart casual setting as it does outdoors. Both are £96 with 20% off when buying two or more.
How should I wash a flannel shirt?
Machine wash at 30°C on a gentle cycle. Turn inside out before washing to preserve the brushed nap and protect the check colour. Hang to dry rather than tumble drying — flannel retains its softness and shape better when air dried. Good flannel shirts don't need ironing; the brushed texture relaxes naturally. A quality flannel shirt washed correctly will last for years of regular use.
"A good flannel shirt is one of those things you stop noticing after a few wears — because it simply does exactly what you need it to do."
Shop the Range
Find Your Flannel
Six colourways across two families. £96 each — 20% off when buying two or more. Free UK delivery over £150.
